ALASKA Summer 2018

 

Alaska summer 2018, fishing for salmon. The above picture of Valdez small boat harbor was taken on the 4th of July this past summer.  I wish I could say that most days out on Prince William Sound were blue-bird sky days such as the one above, the reality was that sure there were day’s such as the 4th but the grey far outweighed the blue. Now, I’m not complaining, far from it as it was a great summer in Alaska.

We arrived in Anchorage on June 7th and quickly made our way to Seward where the Aquanator spends the off seasons. What is an Aquanator? It’s a boat or to be more specific it’s a 79ft. long vessel that in a former career was a troop transport landing craft which has been transformed into a commercial salmon fishing tender.

What is a commercial salmon fishing tender? Long story short; wild salmon are caught as they return to the fresh water streams where they were hatched from, depending on the species they will return after spending 2 to 5 years in the ocean. There are two types of commercial fishing vessels used to catch the salmon; seiners and gill-netters. Both type vessels use long nets to catch the salmon, however the similarities end there. On a “good” year a seiner may bring in over 2 million pounds of salmon while a gill-netter may bring in 100,000 – 200,000 lbs. What’s the difference?  Size of vessels and crew and cost. A gill-netter’s vessel is much smaller than a typical seiner and is often crewed with one or two individuals verse 4 to 6 on a seiner as well as a seiner using an additional vessel called a skiff to deploy and control their net.

Gill-netter loading a net

The net on a gill-netter is spooled off the bow (front for land lovers), the salmon swim into the net and are caught when their gills get entangled in the net. Once enough fish are caught the fisher-person (there are all female crews) hauls the net in while pulling each individual fish from the net storing the catch in brailer bags which themselves are in iced bins. Gill-netters mainly fish for the “money fish” which I’ll discuss in a later post.

Seiners; here is a video of an “opener” for seiners, after watching the video I’ll let you do the math as to why seiners cost more and catch more fish. An opener is a set period of time that the state of Alaska allows commercial fishing. These openers can be anywhere from 24 to 48 hours long and are limited to specific geographic areas.

Seiner’s Salmon Fishing

OK, so a seiner has the equipment to catch a lot of fish. Now once the the gill-netters and seiners have the fish what’s next? Well that’s where the Aquanator (AQ here on out), comes to the rescue. Being a commercial fishing tender the AQ is able to take the fish from the gill-netters and seiners and transport them to the processor as most of the fish are typically caught in waters far from the processor. And not just transport them but to also cool them down to 34F so they stay fresh. So how is this accomplished? Basically one of two ways we either use the boom on the AQ to hoist the fish from the gill-netters which store them in brailer bags or we use the AQ’s fish pump to pump the fish off the seiners. Let’s take a look at the seiners.

The above picture is the AQ’s fish pump which is a large “vacuum” and “pumper” in one. The blue hose coming off the top is the vacuum end, the fish get sucked up into the large steel tank once the tank is full the fish then get pumped out the lower right side up to the fish slide. Notice the pump and pipe contraption in the front, that’s a brand spanking new set-up which we ended up installing mid-way thru the season (separate story).

Fish pump in action

Check out the smiles on the crew members faces in the above picture, notice all the fish on the deck. They’ve caught so many salmon that their fish holds are full with the excess ending up on deck, a very good catch indeed. This is when the AQ quickly (actually immediately when a seiner gets a catch such as the one above) comes to the rescue pumping off the fish and getting them into 34F refrigerated sea water ASAP to keep them fresh.  I don’t recall the exact amount of fish we pumped off the above seiner but based on the picture I’d estimate it to be 50-60,000 lbs of Wild Alaskan salmon. The AQ can hold 90,000 lbs in each of its two fish holds for a boat total of 180,000 lbs (two years ago we transported over 200,000 lbs one time due to us being within shouting  distance of the processor).

The fish are pumped up from the seiner thru the AQ’s tank then up and over to the fish slide where they are sorted, weighed and deposited into the fish-holds (the AQ can pump approximately 45-65,000 lbs of salmon per hour).

Once the fish are loaded aboard the AQ the next step is transporting them to the processors dock. Depending on where the fishing took place the trip to the processor can typically be anywhere from 3 to 18 hours. Once at the dock the processor pumps the salmon off the AQ into the processing plant where they are cleaned, frozen and packaged. The entire process is quite impressive; the fish are cooled to 34F almost immediately after they are caught, kept cold during transport and flash frozen at the plant.

 

Up next, life aboard the Aquanator, Alaskan scenery and a 2018 summer round-up……..

Maine

“The Pond”

From the southwestern desert to the forests of New England. We spent the month of May in Maine at our families camp. We typically get there for a month or two each spring and fall with fall being my favorite. The camp consists of a main two story house with a large deck overlooking Drury pond which would be called a lake in Colorado. There is also a barn with a two car garage on the first floor and a large bedroom on the second.

Camp

The 36 acre property is located outside of Farmington in Maine’s western mountains, pure relaxing paradise. In addition to Farmington being home to a branch of the University of Maine it is also a postcard image of what a classic New England town should look like with a main street of commerce surrounded by colonial period homes.

Chillin n Grillin

I spent most of my days out riding my road and mt bikes exploring my favorite routs which I’ve perfected over the past 30+ years of cycling in the area. There is an extensive network of snowmobile trails throughout the state named the ITS (In-state Trail System) which are well maintained and make for great for mt biking. On the road cycling side of things I have numerous loops from the camp ranging from 20 to 100 miles on quiet back-country roads. There is one particular climb located only a few miles from the camp which  I’ve used over the years to gauge my fitness level, Voter Hill road. The road climbs about 600 vertical feet in one short shot, I have no idea how vehicles can make it up or try to stop when going down when snow covered.  On my rides I’ve experienced everything from riding straight up without zig-zaging indicating excellent fitness to almost dry heaving after pulling off to the side to rest, pathetic fitness. This year I was somewhat in-between the two. Evenings are focused around food with the grill often fired up for sunset, here are three of my favorites: Pineapple Sweet Ribs, Maui Style Wings and a 100% Pure Maine Dinner.

May 29th full moon over Maine

The weather in Maine during the month  of May can vary from snow-rain mixture to bluebird sunny sky’s with temps in the mid 70’s, this year we lucked out and had almost non-stop great weather. Whenever we spends time in Maine I like to take 2 to 4 day mini- cycling trips away from the camp exploring different areas. Sometimes I set off from camp on my bike with a small backpack other times I load up the van and head out. This year I went to Acadia National Park and the White Mountains in New Hampshire with the van, couldn’t resist taking the new Mercedes Sprinter out. Here is a link to a short video on the trip.

Acadia National Park

 

Bass Harbor

Over the years we’ve spent a lot of time in the Mt. Desert Island-Acadia National Park area both on land and aboard Makana. Mt Desert Island is fairly large with Bar Harbor getting most of the attention I prefer the “quite side” of the island home to Southwest and Bass harbors. We’ve stored Makana on the hard for two winters in Southwest Harbor so I know the area well.

 

Man van

My trip to the White Mountains took me to the largest section of above timberline peaks west of the Rockies, the Presidential range. Home of Mt. Washington which tops out at over 6K feet and is the current holder of the world’s highest recorded wind speed of 234mph. There is a road to the top which I rode up in 1984, they no longer let cyclist go up with the exception being the annual race. Over the years I’ve heard about how great the cycling is on the Kancamagus highway located to the south of the Presidential range. I rode the highway from east to west, the rumors were spot on and I will definitely return to do a west to east.

Another one off the bucket list

I spent the last night on my mini-trip at Height of the Land which overlooks Mooselookmeguntic Lake in western Maine.

Mooselookmeguntic Lake ME

 

Van cam shot of Mooselookmeguntic

Next stop Alaska, see you there.

Zion & Bryce Canyon National Parks

Bryce canyon NP
Bryce Canyon NP

With only two weeks left to explore the southwest before commitments dictated our eastward migration we departed Sedona with our sights set on visiting; Hoover Dam, Las Vegas, Zion NP, Bryce Canyon NP, Kodachrome SP, and Canyonlands NP.

Zion NP
Zion NP

Katie and I have visited Zion several times over the past 8 years and we’ve hiked most of the popular trails with Angels Landing being one of our favorites. So with the student and teacher deciding to spend the day in session at the campsite I took off on my bike and rode from the campground to the Angles Landing trail-head. At the base of the trail I met Thomas, a fellow from Germany who was on a three week hiking – mt biking trip of the southwest. We spent the afternoon hiking the trail together. To put it mildly the Angles Landing trail is not for those fearful of heights, over the last 15 years close to a dozen folks took an unintended 2 second free-fall off the trail without a parachute. The falling part was fine it was the negative acceleration from terminal velocity to zero in less than an inch that got’em.

Angles Landing
Angles Landing

One of the numerous unexpected highlights during our two week foray was Bryce Canyon National Park. Katie and I had visited Bryce back in 1992 while traveling from our home in Colorado to visit Maui via San Diego. At that time we drove thru the park for a few hours stopping at the typical overlooks not venturing into the canyon itself. This time we had planned a one night stay which morphed into several as we hike, biked and spent much more time enjoying the park.

Bryce NP

Bryce has a free network of bus service which we took advantage of on one of our hikes into the canyon. From the campground we rode our bikes to Sunset Point overlook then hopped on a bus which deposited us at Bryce Point overlook, from there we did a one way three hour hike down into the canyon and back up to Sunset Point.

Bryce canyon NP

Bryce cactus flowers

Kodachrome State Park was only an hour drive from Bryce and was our next stop, again an unexpected highlight especially the parks camping facilities. Our initial plan was to stay one night we ended ups spending two, in addition to the great mt biking trails were the showers located right next to our campsite (I’ll eventually be posting a video on my work in progress YouTube channel).

On the road from Kodachrome to Canyonlands

Our last full day we did a hike in Canyonlands National Park then drove north thru Moab spending our last night camping next to the Colorado River just east of Moab.

Newspaper Rock outside of Canyonlands NP

Next stop Maine, see you there.

 

Sedona AZ

Sedona AZAfter spending three days exploring Grand Canyon National Park we packed up camp and pointed the van south. Several hours later after a brief Walmart detour we found a nice campsite on BLM land just south of downtown Sedona. As opposed to National Park Service land on most BLM land (Bureau of Land Management or Mismanagement depending on your point of view), you can set-up camp just about anywhere you please.

Sedona campsiteOnce we were settled in we decided to give the drone another go. We sorted out all the online stuff, had charged the three batteries, uploaded the app to my iphone and Mother Nature was providing calm winds for our first test flight.  Hoku and I both had “starter” drones which we learned how to fly several years ago in Maine. These drones cost us around $50 each and were limited to visible flight paths along with constantly adjusting the joysticks to keep them airborne, this did result in several crashes, mostly my drone not Hoku’s. The DJI Mavic Pro which we purchased was a completely different beast, not only was the price difference north of $800 it was also like going from driving a 1972 VW bug to a 2018 Tesla in insane mode. Our goal for the first flight was to take off go up and bring her down gently without any major damage, Hoku flew and I watched.

The following day we set out to explore the fantastic mt. bike trails surrounding Sedona. There are over 55 miles of well maintained single-track surrounding Sedona, I first discovered the trail system when I visited the area in Feb. At that time I had planned on going on a road ride and needed a tube so I stopped in a bike shop in town. After a brief discussion with the folks running the shop it was a no-brainer to ditch the road bike ride for the epic single-track.

Lama Trail Sedona AZ

Katie was still in recovery mode from the flu so she opted out for a short ride while Hoku and I set off on one of the trails I rode on back in February, Lama Trail. Most mt. bike trails are rated just like at a ski area; green circle – easy, blue square – intermediate and black diamond – expert, the Lama Trail was a blue.

Lama Trail

cactus flowers
Flowering Barrel Cactus on Lama Trail

In addition to great mt. biking the Sedona area is also know for being an area with numerous “vortexes”. I won’t go into that whole thing other than saying it was good entertainment to venture into the Sedona Whole Foods to watch the patrons. The area is also home to several Anasazi ruins with one of the more popular and well preserved being the Palatki Ruins. A visit would also make a good history lesson for Hoku. The World Hertiage Palatki site is filled with cliff dwellings as well as pictographs and petroglyphs that were created by the Southern Sinagua people. The Palatki site was technically two sites; one the cliff dwelling and the other being nearby rocks that depict the petroglyphs and pictographs. Palatki, which is the Hopi word for red house, features a cliff dwelling that was constructed in roughly 1150 AD. The cliff dwelling was about two stories high and contained the tell-tale pottery shards that are reminders of the lives that once lived there. Historians are not certain why these people abandoned their dwelling in 1300, but they believe warfare had something to do with it. As was with many of the dwellings this one is only accessible with a guide.

Once again more cool stuff in the southwest desert, next stop the Hoover Dam.

 

 

Grand Canyon National Park

 

 

Navajo National Monument to Grand Canyon National Park. The decision on whether to turn right or left at the intersection was easy due to a quick internet search letting us know that the north rim of the Grand Canyon was closed until Memorial Day.  And another online search had us scoring a campsite, with hot showers, for the evening in Grand Canyon Village. While the Grand Canyon may “only” be several miles wide going from the north rim to the south via roads would take the better part of a day. Further solidifying our decision was the our next planned stop being Sedona which is a few hours south of the south rim.

 

Life in the van has been good, the prior night we watched a classic, the Brady Bunch visits the Grand Canyon. I believe it was one of the only two “double”episodes they did, the other being their visit to Hawaii (was that three episodes?). Classic show, the gang rides mules to Phantom Ranch at the bottom of the canyon where Bobby and Cindy promptly get lost. Which in reality is just about impossible, 35 years ago I hiked  across the canyon starting from the south rim spent the night camping at Phantom Ranch and hiked up the north rim the following day. Bobby and Cindy get “saved” by a young native American boy. With the episode ending with them all enjoying a pow-wow with their newfound friends.

Grandview Point GC NP
Grandview Point

The bottom of the canyon is made up of 1.7 billion year old Vishnu rock which is tough metamorphic stuff. The Colorado River runs 277 miles thru the canyon cutting the rock on each side which due to the Vishnu being very hard forms pronounced almost sheer vertical cliffs.  At the bottom aside from the small Phantom Ranch “settlement” (I did get an ice-cream sandwich there)  is the Bright Angle trail with its foot bridge over the river so unless you are an serious climber there is literally no where to go.

Desert View GCNP

We spent most of the first day exploring the canyon,  actually just the rim, in the van. After checking in at the campground we explored the village which is more like a small city which along with the dozen or so lodges and restaurants contained a post office, bank, grocery store and train station.

The following day we hoped on our bikes and locked them up at the top of the Bright Angle trail-head. Hoku and I hiked 3 miles and 2000 vertical feet down the Bright Angle trail before deciding that we best turn around to make it back up before dark, going down was optional going up was mandatory.

Cool place, so we extended our campground stay another night. With Katie not feeling well the past two weeks Hoku’s schooling had been in somewhat of a spring break mode. So the academic counsel  decided to enlist the teacher and student for a full day of instruction. This gave me the excuse to hop on my road bike and hit the section of roadway which parallels the south rim. The road west of the village was closed to vehicular traffic serviced by park service buses with bicycles allowed. Although the round trip ride from our campsite was only 25 miles total I have to say it was one of the most scenic rides I’ve ever ridden. No traffic, excellent pavement, perfect temperature with a constant vista of the canyon off to the side.

So after the ride, I swung by the grocery store to check it out and was pleasantly surprised by the greeter.

Next stop Sedona, OK it actually ended up being Wal-Mart in Flagstaff, but not for the night, we haven’t done that one yet.

Navajo National Monument

Muley Point campsite

Day two Muley Point to?? After firing up the Eberspacher – Espar diesel heater   I grabbed my iphone to shoot the morning sunrise which was currently beaming thru the passenger side of the van. Katie and Hoku were still sleeping soundly as I poured my first cup of coffee. Katie was in recovery mode still feeling the effects of a nasty case of the flu with Hoku exercising her teenage sleeping rights. Our Muley Point campsite was located at slightly over 7000 ft with the morning temperature outside the van hovering in the upper 30’s, inside the heater was doing a fine job with the temperature quickly approaching 80. That heater rocks, at some point I’ll do a post devoted to the install and use. Over breakfast I planned our next adventure, a visit to Navajo National Monument. However first we had to descend the Mokey Dugway which was a narrow winding dirt road down the side of the mesa.

Mokey Dugway video link

Goose-necks Sate Park UT video link

Goose-necks State Park UT

The drive from Goose-necks UT to Navajo National Monument AZ took us thru Monument Valley, classic western film shooting area, and the small city of Kayenta which we stopped for fuel and ice. Kayenta is also the name of the 190-million-year-old sandstone, shale and limestone rock formation so predominate in the area.  Less than an hour later we were driving thru the aptly named Sunset View campground at Navajo National Monument deciding which site would provide us with the best sunset view. Along with clean restrooms the campground had 30 or so sites all paved, all complimentary and most with great views. After settling in at site number 3 Hoku and I took off on our bikes to explore the park, Katie decided to recharge in the van.

Sunset View Campground

Navajo National Monument is named for the people who now occupy the region and is located within Dine´ (Navajo) Nation land which occupies an area larger than West Virginia. The Monument protects the well-preserved cliff dwellings of Betatakin, Keet Seel and Inscription House built hundreds of years ago by Ancestral Puebloans AKA Anasazi – “ancient ones”. The Anasazi occupied these dwellings from 950 to around 1300 AD then mysteriously abandoned them with theories why ranging from drought to religious dictates.

Betatakin Dwelling overlook video link

The only way to visit the dwellings themselves was with a guide from the park. With us visiting during “low season” we missed out on the daily guided tour and opted for the self-guided overlook of the Betatakin dwelling. Betatakin, Navajo name meaning “ledge house” had at its height 100 to 125 people living there in over 135 rooms, multi-level condo’s with no monthly maintenance fee’s way cool!

Betatakin cliff dwelling

That evening we attempted our first flight of our new Mavic Pro drone, long story short the drone never got off the ground, our inaugural flight was aborted due to one bar of connectivity. Which worked out great as we would later discover that flying a drone is a big No No in National Monuments, National Parks and State Parks.

Next stop the Grand Canyon, which side?

Decisions, North or South rim?

 

 

 

Road Trip

New Mercedes sprinter
Picking up the van in Pennsylvania with 12 miles on the odometer

So we got his van, not just a run of the mill type van but a diesel Mercedes Sprinter 4×4 high roof extended cab, the longest tallest Mercedes currently makes.  As our ski season ended on April first at Wolf Creek we departed Pagosa Springs on April 7th and spent several days in Denver getting ready for our planned van road trip. The month prior to our departure from Pagosa I had insulated the van with Thinsulate, made a custom platform for a queen size bed out of an aluminum ATV ramp with a bunk below for Hoku. I also installed a chair for her as the van only came with drivers and front passenger seats.

Bed platform
Bed platform

First on the list while in Denver was the installation of a 100 amp AGM auxiliary battery. This battery would be used to power some interior LED lights along with our Eberspacher Espar Airtronic D2 diesel heater which I had installed back in Feb. but had yet to fire up due to the fact that it needed a 12V source of power and I didn’t want to use the engine battery.

Electrical install
Electrical install carnage

The process required tapping into the 12V power coming from the engines 200amp alternator. The 12V power from the alternator leads to a 150amp fuse into a Blue Sea Systems 12V DC charging relay which works either automatically or with the option to manually isolate our house battery from the staring battery. This is nice so we don’t drain down the starting battery which would prevent us from starting the engine. From the relay the power goes thru a 100amp Mega fuse to the new battery which I located under the passenger seat. Eventually I will install solar panels, an inverter-charger and Li-ion batteries for our house use.

Blue Sea relay and fuse
Blue Sea Relay bottom and Mega fuse top

Once the bed was in I finished up our “garage” which is located under our bed. I made custom racks which can hold 4 bikes, tools, grill and assorted “stuff”. Most of the things I’ve been doing to the van are somewhat temporary.  Before drilling a bunch of holes in the van our plan is to find out what works and what doesn’t during the next several weeks.

Van garage

While in Denver, (thank you Lawrence and Kathy) I also finished up installing our shower/bathroom combination. I framed the bathroom with schedule 40 PVC and used a concrete mixing tub as the basin. I ran a small hose from the basin out the back which will drain the tub. We also have a small porta potti for #1 and 2 which fits nicely in the basin. For showers we’ll use a solar shower hung from the PVC, (Katie and I spent an entire winter in a cabin next to Keystone Resort in Colorado using a 5 gallon solar shower to take showers, much nicer than baby wipes). We also picked up our DJI Mavic Pro drone which I’ll discuss in a later post.

PVC shower

With the forecast calling for snow we decided it was time to leave Denver and head west to the desert. So on the morning of April 12th, actually it was the afternoon by the time we left, we headed west on I-70 with a detour crossing the over the continental divide on 11,990 ft high Loveland Pass. As sunset approached we got off I-70 at Rabbit Valley exit #2 and spent night #1 in the van.

Rabbit Valley
Rabbit Valley CO night #1

The following day we drove thru Castle Valley stopping in Moab for a mt. bike ride.

After finishing the ride we drove south for three hours to camp at one of my favorite sites, Muley Point. The camp site overlooks the Goose-necks of the San Juan river.

Muley Pt. UT
Muley Point UT

Our next stops; Navajo National Monument in Arizona then on to the Grand Canyon.

 

2018

The first month of 2018 has been interesting, I flew to New Jersey to pick up our new Mercedes Sprinter van and drove it out to Colorado. Our plan is to turn the van into a “land yacht”, I’ll be posting on the entire process. On the skiing side of things we had a great powder day at Wolf Creek with close to 3 feet of snow which also made the skate skiing fun. The unseasonably warm and dry weather for the first weeks of Jan. made for good road biking in New Mexico. And to bring in the new year I got a brand new Pizza Stone as a Christmas gift from Katie!

72 Hours in the Utah Desert

Needles Overlook Canyonlands Nat’l Park
Arches Nat’l Park

The warm and sunny forecast provided the perfect opportunity to visit the desert for 3 days of cycling. Needles Overlook is 210 miles from our Pagosa Springs condo and was a great place to spend the night followed by morning coffee on the canyon rim.

Bike path along the Colorado River, Moab
Morning Coffee

 

 

 

Travel-Food-Van Life, Easy Eats – Awesome Adventures